Sonntag, 6. Februar 2011

The very best of the men winter 2012 catwalks

Always ahead the menswear fashion players are gambling on next autumn-winter. The masculine fashion weeks ended some days ago and they seem to be part of History already.
To make some order in all our first impressions and press releases we have watched and re-watched the shows to bring the best of what we have seen and what should be characteristic of next winter.
The main line is a focus on fabrics and colours rather than on tailoring. No real innovative cuts but a modern approach that says “touch me & feel me” rather than “draw me”.

Less tailoring does not mean lousy proportions and unfinished cuts. Get the point that the classic single breasted jacket gets shorter either by ending at the waist or by being sliced in half leather/half wool. A “trompe l’oeil” effect that is very “in” this season to underline the new decade signature style of the modern man.

Modern or contemporary? That is the question. Many designers have opted out from the classic tuxedo for eveningwear and have replaced it by velvet blazers and tail coats. A splash of very tactile fabrics to express soft elegance that still is meant to be caught by the young. Indeed the whole concept is to separate the idea of sophistication with tradition and old manners. This is where the word contemporary gets is full illustration, the spin is brought from a daywear inspired by classic eveningwear.

Shake it baby! Your timeless Martini style suit has  been revamped and comes in colours and in prints. Patterns you would not have thought of before have invaded our beloved designers’ brain. How about an Hawaiian flower embellished red suit and in crinkly satin? it could be too much but when revealed on the catwalk it just looks timely right. We have entered a new decade, made a U-turn with the wheel, so yes it make sense.

Colours are high and to be chosen and mixed, however some more neutral hues made their statement on stage and should be easily followed by smarty guys on the street. Various shades of grey to layer on top of each other underline elongated silhouettes  and reveal some serious masculine talks. Twisted by a wide lapel, or a double button closing option, it all has to be shown with a very dark touch, a tousle hair style or some hard shaped frames.

Still in the neutral colour palette, the boys have borrowed from the girls’ trends. The famous “camel coat” is to become his wardrobe staple and to be paired with brown knits, café latte blazers and chocolate corduroy trousers. Let the cords leading the way, they are there to freshen up the walk in the park, the office allure and the cocktail entrance effect.

Twist again and let it tweed! It is swinging London and the call comes from the East End. There is a Royal Wedding scheduled for sometime very soon. It might have influenced what Mr. should wear next year in the cold or it might be just a coincidence, the result is that the check pattern has never been checked so many time in a collection’s check list. Not only reserved to the Prince of Wales, it has taken the catwalk by storm and should saturate the urban fields.
The palette is very autumnal but some have chosen to surprise us with unusual colours such as oxford blue or Princeton orange.

Luxury is mainly about the experience, the final touch that needs to be felt and touched… So yes and a big yes to fur trims that uplift traditional coats or sporty bomber jackets. Not only do they confirm the Alpine trend noticed last season, but also they do settle a fur love affair that has grown up. More subtitle, Astrakhan has made a big come back on the mood boards. 70’s for the mood but just for the mood, the whole Saturday night fever or Diana Ross look is not what we hope to capture. It is about smart dressing that picks its textile cues from the disco era but dances on electro sounds.
Fizz! Zip your cocktail of suede blended with leather. Remember the Woodstock suede lace up shirts? They are back in the cupboard but to pull out with straight trousers. Boho is yesterday and the dancing queen has left the scene. The suit has been romanced and celebrates a mad man that says no to sportswear and yes to über-refined daywear. Not a revival of the dandies from the past century, but a clever find that defines the new hippy hippy cool.

Wondering how to follow the rainbow trend mentioned above? Stripes might be a good answer since they should be plenty off them from next September onwards. Knitted, printed or worked out as patches, the proposal is realistic and practical.
A schoolboy attitude: just out of college he has his entry code to get himself noticed on the job market, welcome to hard awaited labour to be achieved with good yarns.

Suffering from a quilted vision? No, you do not need to get your eyes checked. The puffy coat has extended its fashion momentum and is taking over the stage. Cartoons, choose your coat channel. Glossy or matt, choose your screen. Bright or dark choose your mood. For the rest it should only compliment the puff and the stuff. It is a festival not a carnival.

Never too skinny? The cargo pants has shrunk during the summer and comes ultra-fitted to shape an androgyny masculine body. This season, it is in the pants and the tighter the better. Multi pockets are the main attribute of cargo bottoms but not only. Zips and laces have come up to add another level of sophistication. An extension of the shoe that can be socked in stripes hoses for a golf player appeal. Surely this new century cargo pants are a response to some overseen and overused casualwear to bin immediately.

To cut a long cover story short, take you scissor and push. The mini on top is trendy. It is all out and about with hemlines organised in a reverse order. The layers should not be guessed but clearly viewed from the entrance to the exit. Give your gilets the opportunity to conclude below the coat or let the suit say “hi” to the puff. Sleeveless short quilted doudoune on long redingote, crazy? Not if you believe in the supposed trendsetters. Dare or be square at least in the fashion sphere.

Winter would not be cool without a coat Main Event. Many shows made one outerwear style their chorus and displayed it in various fabrics and colours. The keys ones are either trench or duffle coat inspired. The signature lies in the lapel, the wider the merrier and if it is double layered it is even better.

Styled by Yuri Ahn.
Text by Delphine Hervieu.
Source: Dolce&Gabbana
Dolce&Gabbana Fashion Show Photo by: Monica Feudi, Gianni Pucci.
Fashion show Photo by: Luca Cannonieri and Michele Morosi
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